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CHEAP EATS: WHERE TO EAT FOR LESS THAN $13 AN ENTREE
La Cantina's food is served with a side of comfort

By Donna Pierce
Tribune staff reporter
Published January 4, 2007

First impressions: Good vibes may not be listed on the menu at La Cantina, but they seem to be a house specialty. Expect to be noticed, properly greeted and made to feel welcome when you step inside this charming South Loop cantina. "Cheers, the next generation," my dining companion whispered when the bartender waved as we strolled past the tiny bar. We were on our way to one of a dozen tables in a room just large enough to comfortably feature five strategically hung flat-screen TVs, a fireplace, chicken rotisserie and wrought iron-gated wine cellar. Off to one side of our table, five friends celebrating a "girls' night out," refilled margaritas from a pitcher and toasted the weeknight out over shared appetizer platters. Nearby, a quiet young couple ate more than they spoke, as they dug into platters of comfort food including a delicious-looking roast chicken. For a moment, we forgot that we're really in Chicago, on Michigan Avenue just a few blocks south of Cermak Road--not south of the border.

On the plate: Appetizers, platters of traditional dishes (milanesa, tortas, chiles rellenos, etc.) and house specialties arrive attractively garnished. Tacos, burritos, quesadillas and tostadas can be ordered with steak, chicken or vegetarian style. With few exceptions, beans and rice automatically accompany most dinners.

At your service: We loved our server and her "make yourself feel right at home" attitude, which wasn't entirely unfounded. We later learned that she lives in one of the upstairs flats.

Second helpings: We most loved the simple dishes prepared with fresh ingredients, such as the chunky, incredibly fresh and flavorful guacamole that tastes equally delicious ordered mild or hot. (Order mild when in doubt and double up with chiles.) Ceviche limeno was impeccably fresh, sprinkled with corn and deliciously flavored with garlic, cilantro and chile peppers. Lime juice sparkles in a memorable shrimp cocktail tossed with avocado, jalapeno, cilantro and onion. But there are exceptions when flavors outrank tradition. Tallarin saltado tosses grilled onions and steak with linguini. And you're given the option of pairing fries--rather than, say, beans and rice--with crisp-skinned, savory roast chicken. The short and sweet dessert list consists of tres leches and flan. We loved both versions of the house-made flan: the plain for its luscious simplicity, and the more complex version that's flavored with rum-spiked Mexican eggnog called rompope.

Take a pass: Nachos with cheese and beans were yawn-worthy. We found the ensalada del jardinero, a salad tossing romaine, tomato, onions and avocado, lacked sparkle so far away from seasonal produce.

Thirst quenchers: Iced tea, juices and soft drinks, including the Jarritos brand of Mexican bottled beverages. Sangria and margaritas are available by the pitcher or glass. Cocktails, imported and domestic beer, and wine are also available.

Extras: Live music on weekends, kids' menu, express lunch menu ($6.95) from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Price range: Appetizers, $5.95-$11.95; entrees, $7.95-$15.95; desserts, $1.95-$4.95; drinks, $1.50 to $5.95.



La Cantina Grill

(2 forks)

1911 S. Michigan Ave.

312-842-1911

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 11 a.m. 1 a.m. Fri..; 4 p.m.-1 a.m. Sat.; Noon-10 p.m. Sun.

Credit cards: A, DC, M, V

Noise: Conversation friendly

Other: Wheelchair accessible



NEARBY

House tour I: Head a few blocks east to the Prairie Avenue Historic District and tour the Clarke House Museum (1827 S. Indiana Ave.; 312-326-1480), a restored Greek Revival home, designated as Chicago's oldest surviving building.

House tour II: Also located in the district is the Romanesque-style Glessner House (1800 S. Prairie Ave.; 312-326-1480; www.glessnerhouse.org), another example of 19th Century Chicago.



Ratings key: 4 forks, don't miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good

Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members; meals are paid for by the Tribune.

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dpierce@tribune.com

Copyright © 2007, Chicago Tribune

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abc7 News
News

Hard-to-find authentic Mexican is worth the search

Friday, November 03, 2006 | 7:54 PM

As Hispanic Heritage Month winds down, ABC7's Hungry Hound has been looking for a few good moles. This hallmark of authentic, regional Mexican cuisine is now available in at least a half-dozen restaurants, some of which are in hard-to-find locations that are all worth the trip.

In the two decades since Frontera Grill and Topolobampo opened, a number of offspring have brought regional Mexican cooking to the masses. Not just La Cantina Grill, Salpicon and Adobo Grill, but out-of-the-way places like Ixcapuzalco in Logan Square. The latest, Sol De Mexico, occupies a random block in a Polish neighborhood. It may be off the beaten path, but home-cooking makes it worth the trip.

Clementina Flores knows her way around a Mexican kitchen. Having helped launch other notable regional Mexican restaurants around town such as Ixcapuzalco and Chilpancingo, she now consults on her relative's latest restaurant, Sol de Mexico, in the unlikely northwest side Cragin neighborhood.

"We try to get our food to everybody, so they have a knowledge, know exactly what's authentic Mexican food," said Carlos Tello, Sol de Mexico.

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The food is certainly worth a drive. Start off with little sopecitos: corn masa boats filled with pulled chicken in an assertive red mole sauce. Cochinita pibil is slow-roasted pork, achiote seasoning and orange juice, steamed in banana leaves, and paired with a tongue-blistering habanero salsa. Corn tamales are also homemade; they're paired with sour cream and queso fresco.

"Our speciality is the moles; and we try to bring people who really love and enjoy the moles, because the sauce, the complex of the sauce is excellent."

There are four daily moles on the menu...tilapia, for instance, arrives with pumpkin seeds and a green mole - containing tomatillos, cilantro and serrano chiles. A large pork chop rests above mole manchamanteles - which contains earthy red ancho chiles. Small lamb chops are grilled and then set over a pool of mole negro - black from both darkened chiles, but also nuts, seeds and Mexican chocolate.

To keep things cool, try the cinnamon-sweet horchata, or a brisk hibiscus tea called jamaica. The perfect ending to this fiesta of flavors is as simple as a custardy flan. Tello says with his relatives in the kitchen and a commitment to serve authentic regional Mexican, he's part of a growing trend in Chicago.

"I think some people get tired of eat only burritos, tortas," said Tello. "I believe right now that people wants to know or eat authentic Mexican food."

There are at least a half-dozen other options in Chicago for authentic, regional Mexican cooking. Two of the hallmarks you should always look for: homemade corn tortillas and the conscious decision not to offer burritos.

La Cantina Grill
1911 S. Michigan Ave.
Chicago, IL 60616
312-842-1911

City Search
La Cantina Grill Editorial Review


The Scene:
A sleek bar dominates the restaurant's entrance, where diners catch the latest sporting events on a few TVs. Simple brown tables and chairs toward the rear comprise the dining area, which features a centrally located fireplace and a glimpse of the chicken rotisserie in action. Yellow and terra cotta painted walls are dotted with black and white photographs of Mexico.

The Food:
Peruvian touches add novelty to a mostly Mexican menu. Inventive apps range from a flavorful tilapia seviche to papas a la huancaina, a filling potato dish topped with a tangy yellow chili sauce. The rotisserie chicken--which hides juicy meat under perfectly seasoned skin--delivers on its billing as a house specialty. A fresh salsa of onions, peppers and tomatoes bring a light zest to a sauteed tiliapia filet, while traditional burritos, chimichangas, tostadas and enchiladas are amply portioned. Rotating desserts include flan and pastel de tres leches.

Editorial content is independent of paid advertisers. Any expenses are paid for by Citysearch.




Cheap dining this weekend

April 13, 2007
Ten dollar meals in your neighborhood. (Lisa Schreiber/STNG file)

Just because you're trying to stick to that budget doesn't mean you're stuck with an endless stream of cheap noodle dinners. These restaurants are places where you can have a bona fide meal for just $10 a person, from soul food in Douglas to organic dishes in Logan Square. (Prices subject to change.)

Near South Side

La Cantina Grill 1911 S. Michigan Ave. Chicago IL 60616 (Map It) (312) 842-1911 Hours: lunch and dinner daily www.lacantinagrill.com

Though the especialidades de la casa aren't in your budget, the healthy list of classic Mexican dishes is right on the money. Served with rice and beans, you can take your pick of burritos, tostadas, tacos, quesadillas and more for $7.95-$9.95.

Restaurant Detail Chicago Reader

La Cantina Grill
1911 S. Michigan, Chicago, (312) 842-1911.
Mexican/Southwestern. Lunch: Mon-Fri. Dinner: seven days.
Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11.

La Cantina Grill is the sort of casual joint you can take out-of-towners like your ma and pa to: they can't go wrong with either the specials (all meat- or fish-based) or the menu's "traditional" section: burritos, enchiladas, and tostadas that share the plate with the familiar puddle of refried beans, mildly seasoned rice, and tuft of shredded iceberg lettuce. Portions are fat-American size, and the prices, most under $12, shouldn't prompt any pursed lips. For an appetizer we tried an old standby, queso fundido, which came with a pool of salsa verde on top. A dish of shrimp al mojo de ajo arrived sizzling and proved pleasant if not as flavorful as you'd hope. The mole sauce on the pollo michoacano, on the other hand, was rich and satiny; I also loved the fresh, limey tang of the guacamole. If I lived in the South Loop I just might make a habit of this comfy place.

      --Susannah J. Felts

Center Stage Review

This South Loop Mexican spot offers traditional eats, many flavored margaritas and fifteen tequilas. Chef/partner Juan Carlos Lopez trained in Michoacan, and the food, as well as decorative elements (like the bathroom sink) are authentic Mexican. Expect char-grilled steak, mole and enchiladas priced around $10-$12.

La Cantina Grill Metro Mix Review

1911 S. Michigan Ave.
312-842-1911

This South Loop neighborhood Mexican eatery offers affordable, traditional dishes, including enchiladas, steak tacos and chiles rellenos, plus more ambitious fare like steak churrasco, rotisserie chicken and tilapia mojo de ajo (garlic sauce), with everything under $15. Natch, there are margaritas in fruity flavors like mango and strawberry, plus about 15 tequilas for those who prefer their agave solo. The rustic decor features earthy hues, a tiled floor and a fireplace, with Latin-inspired artifacts and black and white photos.

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Friday; 4 p.m.-1 a.m. Saturday; 4-10 p.m. Sunday